Every article about chilled soups begins thus: The hot, gungy, sticky, filthy, smelly summer is not the time for rich, braised meat or thick, creamy chowder. No, no. No. Summer is the season for light, cool foods, if you didn’t know, and chilled soups are the perfect nutrient delivery system during the disgusting middle months.
Not all chilled soups are created equal, though. As the old nursery rhyme goes: